Winter is for mountains- a glorious ski holiday with Chilly Powder in the French Alps

Who else has still not put their heating on?! I don’t know how much longer I can last. Other than burritoed in a duvet, where else is a good place to be when it’s cold? MOUNTAINS!

Last winter, I was sat in a bubbling hot tub in the French Alps, with a white peak before me as kitten sized snowflakes floated from above. Especially lush after a long day sliding down hills on my snowboard with a mermaid tail draped over my shoulder an’ all.

I used to live in Morzine. For cheap rent, I cleaned the chalet and washed the other seasonaires’ bedding, whilst also working as a dish pig in town. I lived in a windowless basement and was basically Cinderella. The only Disney similarity this time in Morzine, was when a lad from Doorstep Skis got on bended knee to see if the snowboard boot in his hand fit my foot on my first morning at my Chilly Powder chalet. This was straight after a breakfast buffet had been laid out for us, where the only finger I was expected to lift was shovelling calories into my mouth to prepare me for a day on the slopes. I even had a carriage waiting for me at Geneva airport, with my name on an actual clipboard. Yup, I know! Proper fancy!! And despite our almost midnight arrival at Chilly Powder, a kind (k)night porter greeted us and took our bags. I was not used to this travel treatment at all.

The gonadola was so close to our chalet, I could have lobbed a snowball at it from my balcony. Discus under 16s school nationals 1999, dont’cha know?! This was a massive luxury, as there was no faff getting to the mountain at the start of the day. It was proper breezy. We could also keep a beady eye on it if a queue was forming if we wanted a slow morning.

The closest I’ve been to get to the slopes from my bed.

It’d been a few years since I was last on the slopes (probably telling from my ski attire), so I treated myself to a lesson with Laurent from Avoriaz Alpine Ski School, who’s been coaching since snowboarding was invented. I followed him like a shadow (or tried to) as he took me over little bumps, kickers and through the Stash snowpark on my request of wanting to improve my skills. Not sure if I managed to get more than 4cm of air, but the resort wouldn’t know otherwise as my thrilled squeals echoed across the mountain with each jump.

Getting a little air in the Stash snowboard park

Snow is great when you go skiing/snowboarding. It’s kind of needed. But a mega snow dump, like we were treated to, in March may I add, is a proper work out. My quads felt like they would blend in with the All Blacks rugby team by the end of the week. So an outdoor hotub was the prerequisite I didn’t know I needed. I could almost snowboard into it as the ski run ended at our chalet, but I opted not to for hygiene reasons. Instead, I sat in my swimsuit with a glass of wine in hand, oggling at the mountain I’d just played on like the civilised traveller I am.

What else do you need after a hard graft on the mountain gym? Food, er yes please. After a quick shower and turn around in my lush room, I’d meet all the other guests in the bar where we’d exchange tales and fails of our mountain exploits, whilst canapés weaved around us like we were at a wedding. Then we’d find a seat next to a new friend to continue our conversation over dinner. Using the freshest local ingredients they could get their mittens on, the chalet chef treated us to five courses every night. It didn’t go unnoticed that the attentive staff kept our glasses topped up. I took a particular shine to a Paul Boyer organic red. I suffer from rosacia, and it’s particularly sensitve in winter and with red wine. Although, that never seems to stop me. But this bottle didn’t make my cheeks flush red or burn and it was the most welcomed discovery.

Having been a seasonaire myself, I loved nattering to the Chilly Powder staff and hearing how they were finding their season. One guy came all the way from South Africa for the whole winter. It’s quite an honour to see the joy in someone’s face when they talk about an experience like seeing snow for the first time.

Entertainment isn’t just for the big kids. Chilly Powder has a creche and kids club, where I pulled on my mermaid tail and read The Mermaid and the Cow. Qualified nannies are on hand to care for childrens as young as three months so parents can enjoy the mountain knowing their kids are in good hands. However, they may not get a mermaid appearance every week.

The only problem with a holiday compared to a whole season, is that it just doesn’t last long enough. Before you know it, it’s hometime. But, I reckon I could get used to more ski holidays if they’re anything like Chilly Powder. What a truly wonderful stay. I’ll be sure to visit again.

If you’re interested in a similar ski holiday contact Chilly Powder. They can also help with booking ski lessons with Avoriaz Alpine Ski School and equipment hire with Doorstep Ski.

For those that like to know the detail please keep on reading.

Resort Highlights

- Close to Geneva airport (approx 1.5 hours)

- Beautiful cosy chalet with kids club

- Over 600km of piste across Portes du Solieil region

- Great slopes for all abilities

- A good bus service to take you all over Morzine and right up to Avoriaz

- Other activites like an ice rink, spa and swimming pool for the non ski fans

What does a typical day look like staying at Chilly Powder?

Breakfast is a mix of cooked and continental- cheese for breakfast in the mountains really works. Totter on up those few hundred metres to the gondola and be whisked up to the mountain and ski away. Ride all the way back down to the chalet front door, where you have a choice of a sauna, massage, hot tub, afternoon tea, hot drink or a well earned beer at the bar. Canapes will soon appear under your nose, followed by a five coure dinner with other guests in the chalet. Then bed, which is very much needed after all that, so it’s fortunate that it’s proper comfortable.

Accommodation and childcare

Chilly Powder is a family run chalet by Francesca and Paul. They’ve made friends with many of their guests over the years since they started operating their luxury catered and self catered ski and summer holidays in 1996. For many returning guests it’s a home from home.

Francesca and Paul had family ski holidays in mind when they created Chilly Powder. The bedrooms were designed to suit families of all sizes and stages.

The main chalet, Au Coin du Feu, is based at the foot of the slopes that link Avoriaz and Morzine, metres away from Les Prodain gondola.

For pre-ski babies and toddlers Chilly Powder’s creche runs from 8.45am-4.45pm Sunday to Friday. They can also run childcare outside of those hours should you need it. Your child is allocated a ‘key worker’ for the week to help them settle and enjoy their creche time.

Older children can take part in Chilly Powder Ski School which includes a lesson drop off and pick up. They’re brought back to Kids Club, where they’re fed and entertained until their parents pick them up.

Ski in Ski out

With a ski run to the door of the chalet at the foot of the piste, this was a mega plus point for me. It means no queuing for a ski bus to get to the slopes in the morning, no long walks in ski boots. No waiting for others who are late, when you want to get showered and melt in a hot tub and dream about the next day. Ski to the door means skis off and straight inside for afternoon tea, a beer or a dunk in the hot tub.

Ski pass and access

Portes du Soleil is one of the largest crossborder ski areas in the world, where 12 French and Swiss resorts are linked together, with a playground of more than 600km pisted ski runs to suit all levels. Food lovers and sun seekers will delight in the 90 restaurants dotted across the ski area.

There’s plenty of green and blue slopes for beginners and kids, while the more experienced can show off their skills in the Stash snowpark.

Chilly Powder can arrange ski lessons for you with either French or British ski schools for group or private lessons.

Snow

At the heart of the Portes du Soleil, Avoriaz has an average snowfall of 7.5m each season. It’s the snowiest ski resort in France- not a bad accolade! This is mainly due to the resort’s height but also its exposure to snow storms moving in. The Portes du Soleil has had heavy investment in ski infrastructure (in all resorts: Morzine, Les Gets, Avoriaz and Chatel).

The season runs from 9th of December to 24th April 2023. Bear in mind, as the spring sun gives you a decent goggle tan, it also takes the snow with its shine. However, I was there end of March and it was truly dumping. So much so, I could barely see.

Chilly Powder operates all year round, so it’s perfect whether you’re looking to hit the ski slopes or hop on your mountain bike. There are extensive winter holiday packages on offer for individuals, groups and families with winter prices starting from €995 per person per week based on two adults sharing a double or twin bedroom or €2,760 per week for two adults and two children sharing a standard family room. Prices based on a half board basis with wine included in evening meals.

Childcare facilities are also available with prices starting at €315 per week and ski school for €295 per week. The chalet also offers self-catered and B&B options in both summer and winter, and is available for weddings and events.

To learn more or to making a booking, contact Chilly Powder on info@chillypowder.com or 020 7289 6958 or visit chillypowder.com

Ps- If you lose your friends on the mountain, it’s very easy to make new ones on the lift. The friendliest resort I’ve ever been to.